Improvisació - Xarel.lo

Xarel.lo | perceel naast NUN Vinya dels Taus | zanderige kalkbodem | 80% vergist op een Stockinger vat en 20% op een oeuf nomblot (betonnen tank in een ei-vorm) | rijke aanzet | zilt | mooie reductie | goede structuur | diepgang | ziltigheid en zuren brengen een prachtige finale | licht rokerig | een Jura stijl (Tissot) Xarel.lo met 12,5 % alc

Enric Soler

De wijngaarden van Enric Soler zijn in de Spaanse burgeroorlog een vliegveld, maar inmiddels ligt de wijngaard er strak bij. Enric is in de jaren negentig de beste sommelier van Spanje geweest en inmiddels doceert hij ook aan de wijnuniversiteit. De 2,5 hectare heeft hij overgenomen van zijn opa, waar hij nu wijnen maakt met een echte Bourgondische insteek. De grond waar de Xarel.Lo staat aangeplant is arm en het weer vaak koel, juist daardoor werken de stokken hard en dat proef je terug!

Review

The pure Xarello 2017 Improvisació was produced with grapes from three plots of vines ranging between 40 and 60 years of age on sandy, limestone-rich soils. The must fermented with indigenous yeasts in one 2,000-liter oak vat from Stockinger and two 300-liter concrete eggs. The foudre was first used in 2016, and the oak is completely integrated. There is a spicy twist reminiscent of white peppercorns. I saw the vineyard, and this is not a second wine compared with Nun—it's just different and seems to have taken a new personality since the 2016 vintage. It has strong aromatics and is very expressive, and there is something herbal (almond peel), definitely spicy and cool, perhaps apricots. The palate is super clean and precise, with superb natural acidity and a clearly salty finish. This is superb, possibly the finest vintage. 3,500 bottles were filled on May 25, 2018. Luis Gutiérrez 93/100

Enric Soler produces 10,000 bottles of wines wine per year, including one of the most personal whites from Spain: the Nun Vinya dels Taus, which is produced from an old Xarello vineyard planted in 1945 that he works biodynamically. Contrary to many other regions in Spain, 2016 was extremely warm and dry here. 2017 was a more normal year, but the end of the season was warmer and the ripeness was accelerated, resulting in the earliest harvest ever. However, acidity didn't drop, and the wines, which are very aromatic, expressive and open, also have good freshness. But what I love is that the four whites each have a marked personality. A name to follow. I also had the chance to taste all the vintages of the flagship Nun Vinya dels Taus, from the initial 2004 to the current 2017, and none of the wines were over the hill. The 2005 is perhaps the most evolved and has started showing some honeyed notes, and it is also the ripest, with 14.5% alcohol; the initial 2004 is possibly the most fragile. I'd say the wine starts showing its best at age six to eight. But there are basically three eras: 2004 to 2009, when the oak seemed more evident, then there is a jump in quality from 2010, and then again from 2013. Surprisingly, the 2017 seemed to have the freshness of the 2013 (and the years were very different, but Enric Soler told me both had great temperature differences between day and night). I wanted to get scores for all of the wines but didn't write detailed tasting notes for the older vintages, so they are here in a very rough draft/sketch form. Luis Guttiérez.