Meursault Saint Christophe - Chardonnay

Chardonnay | blend van drie lieu-dits; 'Les Casse-Têtes', 'Les Petits Charrons' and 'Les Narvaux du Dessous' | limestone & kalk terroir | vergist en gerijpt op eikenhout, 10-25 % nieuw | krokant | rokerig | goude zuren | mooie rijpheid | amandel | enorm potentie tot flesrijping 

Domaine de Montille 

Dit uit de 17 eeuw stammende wijngoed staat onder regie van Etienne en Alix de Montille. Het duo produceert wijnen uit iets meer dan 20 verschillende appelaties in de Bourgogne. Waar papa in de jaren '80 en '90 zich mocht rekenen tot een van de de allerbeste Pinot Noir producenten op deze aardbol pakken broer en zus Montille het veel breder aan. Zo werd Château de Puligny-Montrachet gekocht met een enorm sterk portfolio wijngaarden (vooral Chardonnay) en starte Alix haar eigen negocé (Maison Montille). Sinds onze start in de samenwerking proefde we in de oogst van 2014 wit en rood 2011 al een enorme positieve ontwikkeling door. Alix getrouwd met JM Roulot in Meursault richt zich steeds meer op de witte wijnen. 

Review

A cuvée composed from holdings in Casse-Tête, Petits Charrons and Narvaux du Dessous, the 2017 Meursault Saint-Christophe offers up an attractive bouquet of green apple, Anjou pear, hazelnut cream and oatmeal. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, tangy and incisive, reflecting the house style and its hillside origins, with promising chalky structure and a nicely defined finish. 90/100 William Kelley

The 2017 vintage is a success for Domaine de Montille, where winemaker Brian Sieve has produced a portfolio of fine-boned, tensile wines that display expressive fruit and impressive precision. As usual, the range was quite tight-knit and reserved when I tasted the wines in December, but I suspect that they will flesh out and open up considerably by the time they're bottled. As usual, comparatively long macerations with frequently significant percentages of whole cluster are the order of the day. The big news at this address is that, following European Union legislation that prohibits one label from bearing the names of two appellations, the holdings of the Château de Puligny-Montrachet are being incorporated into the Domaine de Montille: they are accordingly reviewed here. In future vintages, Sieve will be responsible for making these wines, so readers can likely expect these cuvées to become a little less exuberant and a little more serious in coming years. There are no changes to the Maison de Montille négociant house, and those wines are reviewed under a separate heading in this report