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    Puligny-Montrachet - Chardonnay

    Type of wine
    type of wineWit
    Country
    Grape variety
    Chardonnay
    Ageing
    Eikenhout barrique 225-350L, deels nieuw, daarna 6 maanden in een staaltank
    Vintage

    Chardonnay | 1,5 ha | lieux-dits 'Les Chalumeaux', 'Levron' en 'Baudrières-Nosroy' | vergist en gerijpt op eikenhout, 5-25 % nieuw | daarna 4-6 maanden gerijpt op rvs | pure zuivere preciese stijl Puligny | schoon en intens 

    Domaine de Montille 

    Dit uit de 17 eeuw stammende wijngoed staat onder regie van Etienne en Alix de Montille. Het duo produceert wijnen uit iets meer dan 20 verschillende appelaties in de Bourgogne. Waar papa in de jaren '80 en '90 zich mocht rekenen tot een van de de allerbeste Pinot Noir producenten op deze aardbol pakken broer en zus Montille het veel breder aan. Zo werd Château de Puligny-Montrachet gekocht met een enorm sterk portfolio wijngaarden (vooral Chardonnay) en starte Alix haar eigen negocé (Maison Montille). Sinds onze start in de samenwerking proefde we in de oogst van 2014 wit en rood 2011 al een enorme positieve ontwikkeling door. Alix getrouwd met JM Roulot in Meursault richt zich steeds meer op de witte wijnen. 

    Review

    In 1175, this village was named Puliniacum (by the abbey of Maizières), stemming from the old French term "pol", or "basin/water". The village of Puligny was built on a groundwater outcropping, which explains why its cellars are not very deep. Puligny wines often reveal clear colors with bright hues of light green and fine, minerally aromas that combine with white flowers and a light, elegant texture.

    Our Puligny-Montrachet is rather unique because three-quarters of the bottling comes from a 1.1 hectares parcel situated in the Puligny Premier Cru "Les Chalumeaux" that was declassified by INAO when it was replanted in 1975 because the former owner brought in 20 centimeters of topsoil from elsewhere. This is prohibited by INAO's regulations. Since then, the combination of erosion and biodynamic farming have made the vines' roots dive deeper to the original terroir. This gives our Puligny-Montrachet a density and an unusual complexity for a village wine that places it somewhere between a very good village wine and a Premier Cru.

    This is the only Puligny-Montrachet village vineyard to sit mid-slope, amidst the Premier Crus. The two other parcels that complete this wine are located in "Levron" and "Baudrières-Nosroy" and compose another 0.38 hectare.

    Our wines are known for their great aromatic purity. We always favor balance and elegance over power and extraction. The wines are classic expressions of Burgundy, of their appellations in general and of their specific terroirs in particular. The farming methods we use contribute to this individual style, and our winemaking methods aim to avoid excessive outside influences in order to bring out the equilibrium that can be found naturally in Burgundian terroir.

    All our fruit is hand-harvested. Thanks to pneumatic presses, we can calibrate our presses to fit the quality of the grapes and the profile of the vintage. After a light settling, the musts are placed mostly in 600-liter barrels as well as in 228-liter barrels, where the alcoholic and malolactic fermentations take place.

    We use approximately five to twenty percent new casks primarily made from Allier wood that sees a long yet light toasting. The first racking occurs after about one year of wood aging, after which begins the second, four- to six-month phase in stainless steel, which preserves the wine's freshness and tension. We finish the aging with a light fining followed by a similarly light and respectful filtration before bottling. - Montille 

    The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Village displays notes of ripe apples, white flowers and pastry cream, followed by a medium-bodied, pure and vibrant palate that will likely flesh out with further élevage. Like the other bottlings that were formerly offered under the Château de Puligny-Montrachet label, it's a touch more open-knit and precocious than I suspect future iterations under the de Montille label will be.

    The 2017 vintage is a success for Domaine de Montille, where winemaker Brian Sieve has produced a portfolio of fine-boned, tensile wines that display expressive fruit and impressive precision. As usual, the range was quite tight-knit and reserved when I tasted the wines in December, but I suspect that they will flesh out and open up considerably by the time they're bottled. As usual, comparatively long macerations with frequently significant percentages of whole cluster are the order of the day. The big news at this address is that, following European Union legislation that prohibits one label from bearing the names of two appellations, the holdings of the Château de Puligny-Montrachet are being incorporated into the Domaine de Montille: they are accordingly reviewed here. In future vintages, Sieve will be responsible for making these wines, so readers can likely expect these cuvées to become a little less exuberant and a little more serious in coming years. There are no changes to the Maison de Montille négociant house, and those wines are reviewed under a separate heading in this report. - William Kelley 88/100