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    Rioja Blanco - Malvasia

    Type of wine
    type of wineWit
    Country
    Grape variety
    Malvasia
    Region
    Ageing
    Eikenhout barrique 225-350L, deels nieuw eikenhout en deels 2e & 3e fill
    Vintage
    Vinification
    Kneuzen, schilweking, persen, vergisting op eikenhout met het natuurlijke gist

    Malvazia | single vineyard wijn van oude stokken | kalk terroir bij San Vincente | whole buch press | vergist en gerijpt op eikenhout voor vijf maanden | rijp en krachtig | intens citrus fruit | wilde kruiden | toast | romig | aromatsisch, rond en smeuïg | redelijk intens, kan prachtig rijpen! 

    Abel&Maite Mendoza

     Een stel wat echt pioniers zijn in het Rioja gebied, al 25 jaar verbouwen zij biodynamische druiven in verschillende regio’s van de Rioja, op 22 verschillende percelen. Zij hebben ervoor gekozen om alle kleine percelen apart te laten vergisten om zo een soort ‘Bourgogne systeem’ te introduceren, alleen is dit vrij lastig gebleken. In de kelder wordt er traditioneel gewerkt  en levert wijnen op die altijd hoge scores krijgen. Het is niet voor niets dat ze altijd bij de 15 beste producenten van de regio zitten!

    Review

    Malvasía Riojana is not an aromatic white grape, as it's only the local name for a rather neutral grape from Extremadura called Alarije that is also planted in Cataluña under the name Subirat Parent. So, that's the 2019 Malvasía for you, which in 2019 has notes of white fruit and flowers and also an herbal/balsamic hint. The palate is mellow, with integrated acidity, the sapidity of the limestone soils, clean and focused flavors and a pleasant bitter twist. These whites ferment in barrel, where they mature for five months with bâtonnage, but none of the wines show aromas or flavors of oak. 2,680 bottles produced. It was bottled in March 2020. 92+/100 Luis Gutiérrez

    I don't think there are many producers in Rioja that make six different white wines, and it's a shame it's not seven, because the seventh should be a varietal Maturana Blanca, the varietal that I think has more potential among the "new" varieties. But Mendoza doesn't have any Maturana Blanca and therefore he cannot make such a wine... These whites are sold very early, and I suspect most are also drunk early, which is a shame, because when young, the wines are shy and difficult to read (tasting them reminds me of tasting chez Roulot in Burgundy), and one seldom finds older vintages in restaurants or shops. The whites I tasted were all from 2019, a vintage they say was very dry with some spring frosts, a year of low yields and drought. The reds were mostly from 2017, a very challenging vintage, of which you've probably heard a lot by now, but in the words of Abel Mendoza, it was "marked by the largest frost ever known in our area at the end of April. Together with the occasional hailstorm during the summer and the drought of the year in general, it caused a significant reduction in yields and at the same time an earlier harvest. The earliest we have had so far," Mendoza is, of course, the ultimate Riojan vigneron who works his 21 hectares of vineyards, mostly in his village San Vicente de la Sonsierra and in the neighboring Ábalos and Labastida, and makes the wines at home with his wife Maite, a total of 70,000 bottles.