Saint-Aubin 1e cru ‘en Remilly‘ - Chardonnay

Chardonnay | 1er Cru wijngaard | top perceel gelegen aan de achterkant van Grand Cru 'Chevalier-Montrachet' | sublieme opvoeding op eikenhout | krachtig en rijp | toast | diepe zuren dragen de wijn| romig | grote wijn uit een grote wijngaard! 

Domaine de Montille 

Dit uit de 17 eeuw stammende wijngoed staat onder regie van Etienne en Alix de Montille. Het duo produceert wijnen uit iets meer dan 20 verschillende appelaties in de Bourgogne. Waar papa in de jaren '80 en '90 zich mocht rekenen tot een van de de allerbeste Pinot Noir producenten op deze aardbol pakken broer en zus Montille het veel breder aan. Zo werd Château de Puligny-Montrachet gekocht met een enorm sterk portfolio wijngaarden (vooral Chardonnay) en starte Alix haar eigen negocé (Maison Montille). Sinds onze start in de samenwerking proefde we in de oogst van 2014 wit en rood 2011 al een enorme positieve ontwikkeling door. Alix getrouwd met JM Roulot in Meursault richt zich steeds meer op de witte wijnen. 

Review

There are vines geographically situated that adjoin the greatest appellations. Our Saint-Aubin Premier Cru "En Remilly" is one of them. Located just behind Le Montrachet – mid-slope at the exit of the valley with a due east exposition and a thin and rocky soil – its positioning is truly privileged. We believe that "Remilly" comes from a former Romain proprietor named Romilius. A significant part of this approximately 70-year-old, 1.7 hectares vineyard produces our massale selections. The wine, one of our favorites from the Domaine, results from an equilibrium between the powerful and generous character thanks to its south-facing exposition and its mineral restraint attributable to its meager and rocky soils. - Montille 

Aromas of crisp green orchard fruit and hazelnut cream introduce the 2017 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly, a medium-bodied, succulent wine that's limpid and incisive but open-knit and giving in profile. This will drink well young. William Kelley 91/100

The 2017 vintage is a success for Domaine de Montille, where winemaker Brian Sieve has produced a portfolio of fine-boned, tensile wines that display expressive fruit and impressive precision. As usual, the range was quite tight-knit and reserved when I tasted the wines in December, but I suspect that they will flesh out and open up considerably by the time they're bottled. As usual, comparatively long macerations with frequently significant percentages of whole cluster are the order of the day. The big news at this address is that, following European Union legislation that prohibits one label from bearing the names of two appellations, the holdings of the Château de Puligny-Montrachet are being incorporated into the Domaine de Montille: they are accordingly reviewed here. In future vintages, Sieve will be responsible for making these wines, so readers can likely expect these cuvées to become a little less exuberant and a little more serious in coming years. There are no changes to the Maison de Montille négociant house, and those wines are reviewed under a separate heading in this report.